It is, and it is not. There are tournaments specifically for women, but there are also loads of tournaments that are "open" and it doesn't matter if you're a man or a woman. For example: The World Chess Open
Just checked Wikipedia as well, and it sounds like Chess mostly isn't separate by gender so I stand corrected:
The majority of chess tournaments are open to all participants regardless of gender. Very few, if any, international tournaments are restricted to men, but a few are restricted to women, most prominently the Women's World Chess Championship and the Women's Chess Olympiad.
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